All posts by Martha Rees

An anthropologist, in genteel decline, I reflect on the past and future: (1) of anthropology, (2) Oaxaca in particular, and (3) Mexico in general, (4) migration and migrants, (5) rants about everything from parking to politicians, (6) off-the-beaten-track travel (especially Oaxaca and Akumal, but also other places)

Everything changes / todo cambia. Oaxacan Histories

The Biblioteca de Investigación Juan de Córdova presented two important works at the Centro Cultural San Pablo [https://www.facebook.com/fahhoaxaca/videos/3330480640521829].

In LA DIVINACIÓN ZAPOTECA, Michel Oudijk in 5 volumes (online, UNAM) makes entire documents about the, often successful, struggle of northern Oaxacan communities to maintain their beliefs and cultures, using the persecution of divination as an example, available for free to the public (with collective contributions by other scholars, see Vol 1).

In TONGUES OF FIRE IN THE EVANGELIZATION OF MEXICO, Nancy Farriss shows, by studying the texts to understand them in Zapotec itself, that the friars were not entirely successful in evangelizing the population, due to difficulties of communication and translation, especially for concepts that do not exist in the other language or culture, for example, belief, baptism, punishment (as Cata mentions), and that each population adapted them to their specific conditions, e.g., hell (Cruz López).

The two works emphasize that language, culture, and historical moment affected the process of evangelization and conquest; not everything changed with the Spanish conquest of Mexico, and in fact there were strong changes in the SXIX and XX, and in some parts, the 20-day calendar is still in use (Romero Frizzi).

The comments enriched the conversation: Víctor Cata opened a space for Isthmus Zapotec and Beatriz Cruz López showed the different meanings of concepts in the central valleys. Van Doesburg noted that new, clandestine, languages were created to deal with religion (such as the Chilam Balam, as Cata mentions) and, as Romero Frizzi says, tin order to understand the conquest and the colonialization. Some of these contradictions are laughable: For example, the concept of the sacred woman in Mesoamerica clashed with the Catholic concept in which there is only one possibility for sacred feminine power, that of a virgin. Sacred women became virgins, even when they represent fertility! The use of concepts such as PRE-Hispanic and indigenous (native peoples), and others, are in the process of transformation, just as are our ideas about that rich and dynamic past that these works point out to us. The same thing happens today as Oudijk notes, correctly, that peoples continue to change, but they are still Zapotec (or Chatino, or…): they lose some practices, and acquire, appropriate, or invent, others. That’s how it has to be.

Hopefully, this brief summary captures some important points of the presentation. Like any book presentation in Oaxaca, it ended with a mezcal toast, something in which we could not, the virtual ones, participate. I congratulate the authors and commentators.

UnNAMED WOMEN


#AlfredoRamosMartínez, #Whitney (https://www.nytimes.com/2020/09/03/arts/design/whitney-museum-reopening.html) does not name her, but gives her a sexist, racist label (Malinche is the “supposed” traitor of Mexico as she translated for Cortez, actually she was probably coerced) stereotype.  #oaxaca #yalalag

Un comentario mío sobre la exhibición del trabajo de Alfredo Ramos Martínez en el famoso Whitney, sin nombre, y con etiqueta sexista y pejorativa.

Maize Stories from Oaxaca

April 2020

Maize was first domesticated in Mesoamerica, probably in Oaxaca, from human selection and crossing of wild grasses–teocinte (teocintle), that grew, and grow, throughout the region.

 

Maize is iconic in people’s lives in Oaxaca, and throughout Mesoamerica, and has been for a long time, and makes of the origin story for human beings in the Popol Vuh.

Most maize in Oaxaca is rainfed maize, and so the harvest depends on (variable) rainfall–no wonder rain, and hurricanes, and feathered serpents, are also iconic.

Even though most people don’t grow it anymore.

In the spring, the fields are plowed. Today men use ox teams to plow–this take a lot of work, but disturb the soil less than tractors.

Oaxaca Yunta
Oaxaca Yunta

Usually in early June, seeds are planted by walking along the furrow and poking a hole with the coa or digging stick, and throwing one or more seeds in, sometimes with squash or bean seed, too.

maize beans

Cover the hole with your foot, and continue at a distance of one pace. NO fertilizer until after it rains. Carlos Solano, who I met in the late 1980s, when he took us on an agricultural tour of the Oaxaca Valleys, is an agronomist from Chapingo, the main national ag school that is heavily involved with hybridization and all that, but not Carlos. He said back then, ‘well in school they told us to plant the seed with some fertilizer, but the campesinos tell us not to fertilize until after it rains.’ So, ‘Who was right?’, I ask. ‘Pues los campesinos.’ That’s when I loved him.

Then, after about a month, they plow the sprouted maize up into hills and weed it about once a month or more. These delicious weeds pop up down in the early fields in Oaxaca are chenopodium, a protein and mineral-rich green that is delicious. After that, the squash grows up and shades out all the weeds, making nutritious (male) flowers to feed folks until the maize, beans and squash are ready to eat (see more information about various greens, including this one at Quelites].

quelites AdeEmwr

The harvest comes in late October, in time for Day of the Dead feasts in early November.

So here are three kinds of maize that Carlos got from Prof. Diego Lara Palacios and Cristián Reyes from Santa María Tiltepec up in the Mixteca.

Tiltepec stama maiz rojo solano copy

I’m not sure which of the reds came from Reyes and which from Professor Diego, but they’re both from Tiltepec, which is higher than Oaxaca (probably about 6000′).

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 11.58.23 AM

Then, there is the Tilcajete batch.

maiz solano IMG_6723

San Martín Tilcajete is in the valley, about 5000′, and this community has a fairly high water table, maybe 5m. Just south of the city, folks here do not speak Zapotec because the area had haciendas that brought in workers from all over, so Spanish became the lengua franca.

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 12.30.04 PM

Tilcajete is famous for the famous new tradition of alebrijes or fantastic wood carvings, but I was originally attracted to it years ago, back in the 1980s and 1990s, because, unlike many communities, they seemed to produce enough maize to last through the season. I went with my friend, Mario Villa Melchor and family–Adriana, daughters Fernanda and Astrid. Mario is an organic inspector who has worked with these women a lot. Pola is a very interesting woman who plants about 6hec of maize to sell, except now she’s older and uses a cane. She regrets no longer being able to get out in the fields. She never married, but ‘adopted’ Inés, who also never married. Inés works the fields. Here she is with me picking out your maize seed.

PHOTO-2020-02-08-14-09-52_1

They later ‘adopted’ another woman who has a son. This arrangement (and Ines’ clothes) is unusual. They sold me some white criollo (self-selected, not hybrid maize, which looks sucked dry) big and fat, some yellow and some velatobo or purple maize. They pointed out that the yellow maize has some orange seed it in. Velatobo is important for two reasons (1) because they said my favorite and disappeared variety, sangre de cristo, could possibly be produced by mixing yellow with velatobo, and (2) Ines said that velatobo might do better in ae shorter growing season.

Rees mwr & Martin Sanchez maizWith Don Martín, Tilcajete

I got this sample years ago from Don Martín in Tilcajete (his daughter said he lost it because he got drunk when he dressed up as a woman with a baby carriage for Carnaval). Don Martín showed Carlos and me his fields one year, and he knows his local races and hybrids, too. Unfortunately my sample of sangre de cristo was too old to sprout when I gave it back to him a couple of years ago.

Maiz sangredecristoSangre de Cristo maize

All of this maize comes with stories about rain and clouds and serpents, showing that the feathered serpent (quetzalcoatl in the valley of Mexico, koo savi (serpent of the rain) in Mixtec and Cocijo in Zapotec in central Oaxaca) still roams the skies.

Maize, even for urban folks in Mexico, is an iconic part of the culture, and although selling or giving away seed is ok, people get crazy on the subject of GMO maize, which threatens, not human health, but local diversity. Every woman has a narrative about which maize is good for what, and how it behaves and tastes in tortilla, pozole, or other dishes. (Note: Corn is the stuff that they grow in the US, it is a kind of maize, but not really).

 

Oaxacan spindles / Malacates oaxaqueños: some of my favorite things

Notes by Martha Rees, 2020

Cotton, and sometimes agave fiber, weaving is ancient in Mesoamerica, at least 3500 years old [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textiles_of_Mexico]. A number of varieties of native cottons are found in Mesoamerica, white, green, brown (coyuche or coyote) and more.

The cleaned and carded cotton or fiber is spun into thread with this supported spindle (malacate). This video is from Pinotepa, just south, closer to the coast, of the Amuzgo region (the enredo or skirt of the women is dyed with indigo and púrpura dye from a sea snail [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOZ2_HGrxSA].

Weaving is historically women’s work, so much that spindle whorls are identified with sacred females in iconography and in tombs. A famous case is tomb 7 at Monte Albán, the ancient city of the Zapotec. Tomb 7 is obviously a noble site so archaeologists assumed that it was, obviously, a male. Jeff McCafferty re-read the evidence, pointing out that the evidence of spindle whorls supported his theory that this is the tomb of a noble woman (https://antharky.ucalgary.ca/mccafferty/gender-research/tomb-7-monte-alban). Unfortunately, the criteria bones (pelvis) ‘disappeared’ in excavation and restoration, and so, it is impossible to substantiate this claim with physical evidence. However, nowhere in the ancient writings or iconography are spindle whorls associated with males.

Images of ceramic spindle whorls, like this one that belong to a friend’s father, back in the day when artefacts were gifted among Mexicans, abound, often folks don’t know that it’s a spindle whorl. But I did, as soon as I saw it.

malacate soledad

 

So, I always looked for spindle whorls still in use today, and I found one at the market in Tlaxiaco in 2018, I think, on the IOHO, historical organs of Oaxaca tour. This one is from the Amuzgo ethnic area [https://www.clothroads.com/meet-the-makers-of-the-traditional-oaxacan-hand-spindle/#.Xo87pVNJFUU], down on the coast, but the vendor, an old man leaning against the portal of the open market, brought them up to the highlands to sell.

malacates

With the introduction of sheep, and wool after the conquest, with the colonial, or upright loom, spinning and weaving changed, and men came to dominate in the weaving process.

teotitlan loom

 

But not in spinning…

Minolta DSC
even with European technology….   (Isaac Vasquez house)

 

Some other sources

Carpenter, Lacey B., Gary M. Feinman and Linda M. Nicholas. Spindle Whorls From El Palmillo: Economic Implications. Latin American Antiquity. Vol. 23, No. 4 (December 2012), pp. 381-400. Published by: Cambridge University Press. https://www.jstor.org/stable/23645604

Mccafferty, Geoffrey and Sharisse McCafferty. 2003 Questioning a Queen? A Gender-Informed Evaluation of Monte Alban’s Tomb 7. Ancient Queens: Archaeological Explorations, edited by Sarah Nelson, pp. 41-58. Altamira Press, Walnut Creek, CA. 

King, Stacie M. Thread Production In Early Postclassic Coastal Oaxaca, Mexico: Technology, Intensity, And Gender. Ancient Mesoamerica / Volume 22 / Issue 02 / September 2011, pp 323 343. DOI: 10.1017/S0956536111000253, Published online: 30 December 2011. https://collections.peabody.yale.edu/search/Record/YPM-ANT-135340

bidquare. https://www.bidsquare.com/online-auctions/helmuth-stone-gallery/zapotec-stone-spindle-whorl—oaxaca-mexico-1481797

Schortman, Edward M.  and Patricia A. Urban, eds. Resources, Power, and Interregional Interaction

De Avila, Alejandro. 1997. Threads of Diversity. Oaxaca Textiles in Context. Pp. 87-152. Kathryn Klein, ed.

Gobierno del Estado de Oaxaca, 1997. Historia del arte de Oaxaca: Arte Contemporáneo

 

 

Art for love or money: Latinos and politics, but also, just a bit of a rant

Art for love or money: Latinos and politics, but also, just a bit of a rant

#ArtBasel2014 Blog entry
Martha W Rees
December 2014

See Mel Chin on this, much more fun: [http://creativetimereports.org/2014/12/18/mel-chin-miley-cyrus-eric-garner-miami-basel-art-fair/]

In December, I went to ArtBasel Miami Beach, but didn’t get everywhere, I missed out on Aqua Hotel, and Autobody, but went to NADA, ArtBasel, MiamiProject, ArtMiami and Pinta. I did see a lot of pieces that intrigued and pleased. But I went looking for Latino and/or political art. While I might well have missed it, I found little political art, no Mexican American, (almost) no immigrant, art.

What is art? The question that interests me as an anthropologist is the place of art, as a form of production, in society. While the common view—by artists and society in general—is that art is an individual, idiosyncratic, unique activity–autonomous, Becker argues the opposite: that there is very little artistic production that isn’t the work of a group of people working together. Rather than being outside of society, art is part of society, in this view (1992:14). Becker (1992:7-9) regards art as work that some people do, and this work is social, in that it involves cooperation between a group of workers, with different forms of division of labor, specialists and otherwise, carrying out different tasks.

How is capital appropriated in art, if it is truly autonomous (Garcia Canclini 1986)? ArtBasel certainly shows how some art does represent capital. And class mediates this representation, or circulation through the market. In his book, Distinction, Bourdieu looks at taste (aesthetics) through the optic of class (1984), showing how social class ‘colors’ the perception of beauty (the middle class thinks a cabbage is beautiful; working classes think it is food). Art is a way of organizing class distinctions symbolically, although only in the ‘modern’ West is art constructed as ‘autonomous.’

So, autonomous art is above history, and politics. But, of course, an apolitical position is, in fact, a political position. Reflective (or belly button) art looks at the inner self, aesthetic art plays with form. These last two are important, and made up at least 80% of the pieces shown.

As a caveat, I note that it is likely that there was, and is, much that I missed. Political content doesn’t have to be blatant, but sometimes the unschooled (such as I) may miss it!

Aesthetic Art
One way of defining aesthetic art is in the negative: most people wouldn’t put it in their living room; you couldn’t ask the artist to make you a version in another color! I’m not saying that I don’t like technique and form, but only that it is not sufficient for art as cultural critique.

I saw lots of pieces that were aesthetically pleasing in color, form and design. This example (below) is a mirror with acrylic paint (see #HelenNagge and me, blurry in there)—isn’t reality fun? (Harrogate by Lavier) (Lewenig, ArtBasel).

Lavier's Harrogate

Incredibly elegant and beautiful, Hu Xiaoyuan’s Vortex (Beijing Commune, ArtBasel) is not political, how could it be? But it is certainly beautiful.

Hu Xiaoyuan VortexVortex beneath the Vortex by Hu Xiaoyuan (Beijing Commune)

Political art
But art, like other intellectual production is, in my book, a form of cultural critique; a commentary on daily life. That is political art: art that comments on power relations in the larger social, rather than individual, condition. Not how I feel, but what happened (and how I feel about that, maybe).

An example of political art is Live/Work by Brad Troemel of Tomorrow Gallery at NADA.

Tomorrow Gallery Ants Nada14 abmb

I like NADA anyway because it seems edgiest and less commercial. There was certainly a lot of stuff that you wouldn’t put on your wall! But this piece is aesthetically pleasing, alive and it makes you wonder. What happens to the ants? (Live/Work by Brad Troemel, Tomorrow Gallery, NADA).

Another piece (Real Times by Chim Pom) at NADA also wasn’t aesthetic art, but made no overt political statement, although certainly an urban condition overrun by rats might be seen as a political conditions. Chim Pom of Mujin-To Production Gallery in Tokyo displays a video capturing and killing rats, followed up by a stuffed bright yellow dyed rat! Definitely not for the coffee table!

Mujin-to rat(Mujin-To Production, NADA)

I sought out galleries owned by Latin Americans (and concentrated on Mexican galleries), and Latin American Artists. NADA had one Puerto Rican and one Guatemalan artist (who I could never find). None of this work was political or very edgy.

There was some art that was political. This piece (Enslaved Desk), at ArtMiami, was at an unattended booth with no information or gallery representative.

IMG_0414 3

However, the work was technically excellent and pleasing to the eye. I just stood by this desk and saw a young artist suffering through the bonds of education, to express him/herself, like Pink Floyd’s The Wall.

Of course, Kara Walker’s very political, and controversial, pieces shock and remind (Confectionary)  IMG_0398 2—probably the essence of the political art form.

Possibly a migrant, too, Sarkissian (Homesick) built, and destroyed, a heart-rending replica of his parents’ apartment building in war-torn Damascus:

Sarkissian Homesick(Kalfayan Galleries)

Of course, Mel Chin is a major political artist, whose work, most of it only referred to at the Jonathan Ferrara booth at the Miami Project, was reviewed in an exhibition at the New Orleans Museum of Art (Lash 2014). Technically perfect, deeply researched, his work is often huge. One piece here, Cabinet of Craving, is beautiful polished wood (ebony veneer on oak) sculpture with an English antique tea set inside a ‘spider’ with an ancient Chinese mask (gluttony). This sculpture is not in fact a spider, but the story of how English craving for Chinese tea was (literally) fed and fed by the craving for opium. Cabinet, was a favorite spot for art selfies (see below):

Chin OPium sketch

Latino galleries and artists
I guess if you have enough resources to show at ArtBasel Miami, your clients are not immigrants, or activists, but folks looking for art from Latin America, often an essentialized representation of Latin America.

Ramses Olaya (Kami II) takes papel picado, the paper-cut-out decoration of Mexico and makes auto-body papel picado in a beautiful memory of fluttering flags across the streets at holidays.

IMG_0412 3(Ginocchio Gallery, PINTA)

This tire (Or map, with glyphs was not identified—at least I couldn’t find the label at the show or on the web. It shows Latin American (Mayan? Or pseudo Mayan?) content, or derived content, apparently a turtle glyph on paper on a map of the world (see paper under the tire), and other glyph-like representations carved into a tire.

IMG_0427 3Juan Ruiz Galeria  (Miami, Venezeula)

Perhaps Aliza Nizenbaum is a migrant, and certainly her piece (Nancy’s Dragon) contains references to Mexico, with images of indigenous weaving under letters to/from home. Here, the Latin American content is background for a personal story.

Nisenbaum(Lulu Gallery, Mexico City, PINTA)

Finally, I come to Labor Gallery, who I first saw at NADA in 2011, since then, they’ve moved into ArtBasel. They consistently show pieces with political and Mexican content. None of Pedro Reyes’s peace heroes are Mexican, as I noted as the Gallery represented point out that it was a sad day for Mexico (as the body of one of the missing 43 students of Ayotzinapa had just been positively identified). Where are the Mexican peace heroes?

Pedro Reyes Peace Heroes(Labor Gallery, Mexico City, ArtBasel)

People
Of course, there was plenty of opportunity to watch people at ArtBasel, Miami. I was surprised at all the folks taking pictures of themselves with art (is it contagious?), and not just in front of this sculpture (@melchin, cabinet of craving, Miami project), but many others, too:

Chin Opium peopleMel Chin’s Cabinet of Craving (Miami Project) satisfying a craving for….?

All of Mel Chin’s art is political, and it is all aesthetically perfect, and requires a careful reading to understand—from Katrina, conquest, superfund sites, guns, to terror and more. While beautiful and perfect (I’d certainly put any of it on my wall, or in my room), Chin may be too big and too political for a place like ArtBasel.

Conclusions
A lot of the art at ArtBasel wasn’t worth the effort, especially with the general confusion and lack of signage about transportation shuttles, and the masses of people. People at ArtBasel (artists, dealers, galleries and buyers) are looking for money, not art. One example was Nahmad gallery.  They had Picassos and more.  And a chain across the space to keep the riffraff out!

An anthropological analysis of art, and political art, immigrant art, Latin American art, shows that ArtBasel is not a space where the critique of culture through art takes place. Rather it is a place where value (capital) is created and circulated in the form of class-based symbols of aesthetics and taste. Is this cultural critique?

SOURCES

  • Becker, Howard S. 1982. Art Worlds. Berkeley: University of California Press (1991).
  • Bourdieu, Pierre. (1984). Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste. Routledge. (orig. 1979).
  • Garcia Canclini, Nestor. 1986. Desigualdad cultural y poder simbolico. La sociologia de Pierre Bourdieu. 1. Cuaderno de Trabajo. INAH.
  • Garcia Canclini, Nestor. 1995. Hybrid Cultures. Strategies for Entering and Leaving Modernity. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press (1989. Culturas Hibridas. Grijalbo. Mexico).
  • Lash, Miranda, ed., 2014. Mel Chin. Rematch. HatjeCantz.

 

 

 

Othered Women/ Otras Mujeres #JudithRomero #Galería Resplandor #Oaxaca

Judith Romero doesn’t know how edgy her work and her spaces are. But her recent show, Othered Women / Otras Mujeres at the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca exemplifies her finger on the pulse. These works are portraits of women from Oaxaca, Mexico, Chile, Argentina, Poland and elsewhere; women who have chosen not to have children. The photos are technically exquisite and beautiful with that unique gaze of a desk, a kitchen, a woman with her words and story.

The works are beautiful, but they were served up with an opening that included commentary from women, and video. I didn’t expect the SRO crowd.  Starting with a short video that set the scene with the voices of women from all over–women who choose not to become mothers, followed by a conversation organized by The Rosario Castellanos Women’s Study Group (GESMujer.org)–a key organization with forty years of work in women’s empowerment, leadership, and reproductive rights in Oaxaca. Speakers commented on their own lives and decision, and ended with the words … be free. These words and women with this incendiary ending sparked even more impacting questions and comments from the audience — how do you handle public space, about how even mothers are othered.

These comments illustrated the need for a space to process, to visibilize, women’s life decisions. Wow.

Romero doesn’t know how edgy her work is, but this show at the MACO is just a justly deserved recognition of her previous work. Her openings are events that spill out of her gallery, Galería Resplandor [http://resplandor.gallery/], into music, food and hair styling, among other things, in the Pañuelito plaza in Oaxaca. The works have gone on to other shows, and the series continues (see reviews, below).

romero deya aquino 2017

Other events include Mirar adentro (curated by Iván Ruiz) with portraits, places and thoughts in movement from a group of wonderful artists.  La Fiesta, for example, presented works by a number of artists, including the internal gaze of Eleuterio Xagaat García’s in representations of Holy Week in Temexitlán in the Chinantla Alta. Other shows include Chilean artists, and Caballeras by Colette Urbajtel–this opening included hair styling with the food and music in the plaza.

REVIEWS

Romero Exhiben un rostro femenino inédito en _Otras Mujeres. La decisión de no tener hijos_ – El Sol de México

Romero judith review otras mujeres clavic

romero otras mujeres review noticias

Ambulantes v Comerciantes: ¿Nuestro Oaxaca de antaño?

English below

Salió recientemente esta añoranza de los tiempos perdidos (con una imagen reciente):

Screen Shot 2019-06-01 at 8.23.33 PM

 

“Así lucía antaño”

REPORTEOAXACA.COM.MX. Por exceso de ambulantes Zócalo de Oaxaca perdió su esplendor – Reporte Oaxaca [http://reporteoaxaca.com.mx/oaxaca/por-exceso-de-ambulantes-zocalo-de-oaxaca-perdio-su-esplendor/]

 

Acuérdense que el desalojo de los ambulantes empezó como una lucha entre los comerciantes y los vendedores ambulantes (originalmente Driki), quienes fueron expulsados—por medio de inspectores nefastos—y exiliados hasta la Plaza Labastida, hasta el Carmen Alto (las dos ahora tienen vendedores urbanos), hasta más allá de Santo Domingo.

Fueron reemplazados por vendedores, principalmente de Guerrero, vendiendo chicles y etc.

Después la Ciudad de Oaxaca montó fotos para representar a los exiliados.

Zocalo foto indigenous woman & woman b

A los turistas les encantan los vendedores, y representan el 70% de las ventas [https://www.nvinoticias.com/nota/117451/acapara-comercio-informal-70-de-ventas-en-oaxaca?fbclid=IwAR11Qm4o7OR0_aII9a5-LGpOQytMCPu6dkGMROWRWupC7STQu9dFDrIMtXk]: son los comerciantes de las tiendas, quienes se oponen.

Faltaría una solución que les abra otra vez un espacio céntrico y digno para los oaxaqueños originarios.

ENGLISH:

Store owners vs Vendors: in search of le temps perdu:

A recent article in Reporte Oaxaca posts a recent picture of Oaxaca’s Zócalo that purports to be what it used to look like before it was overcome by vendors.

I summarize the history of the exile of the original vendors, mainly Driki (Triqui) and other indigenous vendors, from the Zócalo with really nasty inspectors. They were sent to the Plaza Labastida, to the Carmen Alto, and finally, above Santo Domingo, and were replaced by vendors, many from Guerrero, selling imported trinkets, and chiclets.

To add insult to injury, the City mounted a photo exhibit of indigenous people in the Zócalo, a memory of the ghosts.

Tourists like street vendors, they account for 70% of sales in Oaxaca [https://www.nvinoticias.com/nota/117451/acapara-comercio-informal-70-de-ventas-en-oaxaca?fbclid=IwAR11Qm4o7OR0_aII9a5-LGpOQytMCPu6dkGMROWRWupC7STQu9dFDrIMtXk], it’s the store owners who don’t.

Oaxaca needs to find a central space for its original peoples.

FLYING IN THE MIDDLE SEAT

The middle seat is for award tickets. The middle seat gets the armrests. Not sharing it, and not an elbow in my ribs.

Flying is like than being jammed like sardines onto the metro, except it lasts longer.

People claim and defend their space, like two kids in the backseat of the car.

And like bigger kids and younger siblings, there are power differentials, but mainly gender (sometimes glossed as size).

The middle seat gets the armrests.

Get to your seat, lower the arm rests and stake out your territory. Put in earbuds, go to sleep.

Don’t get me started on #manspreading.

 

AUTISM & EVOLUTION

EVOLUTION of AUTISM?

Another Rant by Martha, May 2019

#anthropology, #evolution

“Social entrepreneur” Zichermann [https://www.gabezichermann.com/] shows just how dangerous ignorance of evolutionary theory is. Evolution 101: the environment selects on diversity, and the most fit (not necessarily the strongest or the most intelligent) reproduce more successfully (they have more offspring that survive to reproduce). Aside from his widely erroneous assertion that autism is a new “stage” in human evolution, his stock image (below) is sexist and racist (the modal human is neither white nor male) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25ppkyKUDEw&feature=youtu.be].

Evolution of white guys?
https://www.shutterstock.com/search/human+evolution

This kind of misinformation is dangerous to all of us, including people on the autism spectrum and shows how important basic scientific literacy is.

On the other hand, Simon Baron-Cohen [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0o1PXeFEcL0] has a data-based approach, noting the, albeit small and polygenic, genetic factors involved in this varied group of diagnoses.

This image from is a more accurate portrayal of human evolution with regard to stature, but not gender:

Evolution Britanica Screen Shot 2019-05-20 at 8.26.09 AM
https://www.britannica.com/topic/Homo-sapiens

I don’t know what autism is, or if it has really increased. There is no evidence of differential (greater) reproduction of humans diagnosed on the autism spectrum, and therefore probably does not affect genetic change over time (evolution). I do think that it is an example of the incredible human diversity that we create and maintain.

Oaxaca Travel Guide (May 2019 ed)

MARTHA’s OAXACA NOTES 2019

I love Oaxaca and have compiled over the years, pages and pages of suggestions for my friends who visit. Here are the highlights.

If you want to know the best of everything in Oaxaca, look at Carol Turkenik’s Oaxaca Tips [http://www.oaxacatips.com/].

Preparations

At 5000ft, Oaxaca is always cool in the evenings. Summer rains mainly hit in the afternoon. Cobblestone streets mean walking shoes are a must!

Silk long underwear: light and warm

Vest or fleece jacket

Documents

Passport (visa given out on plane).

Take a digital photo of all your documents, credit cards, visas, etc. and store on Google docs, drop box and flash drive.

Hint: carry two ATMs and/or credit cards from two accounts in different bags.

Money

Don’t bring US dollars

Don’t buy pesos at the US airport

Use your ATM. Check your bank for banks they have agreements with for lower ATM fees. Otherwise the lowest fee is Caja Popular Mexicana.

SAFETY

US State Department (2018): exercise caution, certain highways are dangerous.[1]

Two easy and fun day trips:

  1. Tlacolula Valley
  • Tule (tree and church, and market) for breakfast (try tasajo beef and chocolate with water)
  • Tlacolula market (on a Sunday)—be careful in this market, but it is an indigenous market, especially way in the back! The church is amazing, too.
  • Yagul take hats, bread, water, fruit and cheese for a hike/lunch—climb to the top, then do the ruins

  • Teotitlán for rugs. Isaac Vázquez’s[2] Bug in a Rug, not the one on the main street, but up to the left, will show you how dyes are made, they accept credit cards and have a bathroom!
  • Mezcal tasting at a place along the way!
  1. Ocotlán valley.
  • Aguilar sisters.[3] They live in houses on the right after the PEMEX station in Ocotlán.

13aguilarj&pot

  • [4] Walk around and folks invite you in. You may look for specific producers, and sometimes people will help you (tip the kids if they do), sometimes, not.
  • Restaurants at the highway/Tilcajete turnoff for lunch — clean and nice, or… not so.
  • Black pottery at Doña Rosa’s (and bathrooms), and in the market on the plaza. There is also a restaurant next to the market, and it also has bathrooms.
  1. Oaxaca Mountain cabin

Mancomunados office on M. Bravo, in the block to the west of Nuevo Mundo cafe. They have info regarding cabins and then when you check in at whatever town you decide to start in, they arrange a guide.

LANGUAGE CLASSES

  1. Spanish. I’m not a language teacher, but my experience is that the bump forward comes with immersion. That is, your emotional communication has to take place in Spanish. Doesn’t help much to come home and debrief in English! So, even a few days of a home stay can help a lot. There are lots of classes, though, and aside from that suggestion, I think motivation (also helped by immersion) is the main thing. If you google “Spanish classes Oaxaca,” you’ll see lots more:
  2. Centro de Idiomas, Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca. [http://www.idiomas.uabjo.mx/]. You can even get college credit, if you need to! Walk in on a Monday am, get a placement test and decide: classes, individual, or a mix. This is also one of the cheapest. Located a few blocks south of the zócalo. I’d recommend 2 hours of class, 1 of conversation, in the mornings.
  3. At the high end of the price range is Instituto Cultural de Oaxaca [http://www.icomexico.com/]. This is right across from the PEMEX gas station on the highway at the turn up to San Felipe. Beautiful space, lots of pottery, cooking, etc. classes. This is good because it does get you to use your language in a practical, action setting.

MUSEUMS—aside from the anthropology museum at Santo Domingo.

Museo Textil is world class [https://www.museotextildeoaxaca.org/]

Museo Belber has great stuff [https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Cultural-Center/museo-belber-jimenez-111145485570691/]

Museo de Filatelia is stamps, but it’s a fabulous space to site in, or send a postcard [http://www.mufi.org.mx/es/home1.php].

GARDENS

The Jardin Etnobotánico [http://www.jardinoaxaca.org.mx/], is a beautiful space and a genetic and culture reserve of native plants and their historic and current uses. Anthropologist Carol Turkenik (of Oaxaca Tips) runs the best English tour on—I think T Th at 11 (you should sign up the day or so before).

GALLERIES & ART

Resplandor—photos, Judith Romero owner, photographer, and book designer  [https://www.facebook.com/resplandor.gallery/]

Arte de Oaxaca—the premier gallery, but there are lots [https://www.facebook.com/ArtedeOaxacaGaleria/].

COFFEE
The organic coffee industry is huge. There are a number of organizations. The biggest, organic, fair trade, democratic and gender-conscious is CEPCO, but there are lots. Tours are easiest from the coast, so if you go to Puerto Escondido or Huatulco….

ARCHEOLOGY

Yagul is my favorite place—a hike, and overview and fun. Depending on your level of interest and mobility, I’d start with Monte Alban, then some of the others.

The Atzompa site just opened up, you have to check the hours.

OAXACA TOURS

Envia [https://www.envia.org/] has tours of local projects and communities.

As for guides, there are lots.

COOKING CLASSES

The queen is Susana Trilling (Seasons of my Heart) [http://seasonsofmyheart.com/]. There are lots of other places, too!

MEZCAL

My favorite mezcalería is Cuish Mezcalería. I drink the resposado mezcal at Danzantes, too, but really, Herradura tequila is drier and just as good. I suggest trying a tasting of 3. Eat something though.

RESTAURANTS

Really you’ll find lots of great food, these are just a few.

  • Boulenc – bread and restaurant.
  • Cafés on the Zocalo– the view is great, but the food is average.
  • Danzantes–always good, novelle cuisine
  • La Teca is ABSOLUTELY the best, but it’s a taxi ride—Istmus food (see Calvin Trillin’s review)
  • Casa de la Abuela– Oaxacan food with a view. Chapulines are delicious, really
  • La Teca is the best, but it’s a taxi—Istmus food (see Calvin Trillin’s review)
  • Itanoni–local maizes, great for breakfast.
  • La Cosecha market [https://www.facebook.com/LaCosechaOaxaca/?utm_source=tripadvisor&utm_medium=referral] has local and organic food on tables in the center with juice, coffee, tacos-empanadas, vegies, and crafts for buying or eating there. It’s up Macedonia Alcalá above the Santo Domingo church and is open from early to mid-day from Wednesday through Sunday or every day, depending on the season. I go for chocolate con agua, a jugo verde and (so delicious) organic turkey barbacoa tacos[https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g150801-d12817228-Reviews-La_Cosecha_Oaxaca-Oaxaca_Southern_Mexico.html]
  • Café y Ciabatta / Xiguela Café a bit further away, in Jalatlaco, is women-owned, run, as locally and organically sourced as possible. Daily lunch at 2pm, about $5US

Italian

  • Tastavins (homemade pasta on Monday nights)
  • Sol y Luna (sometimes music)–my go to place since my first night in Oaxaca in 1983.
  • Mex-Ita. The best Napolitano outside of Italy, homemade pasta, homemade wine, everything is excellent.

MUSIC

There are many old, restored, beautiful pipe organs in Oaxaca. Periodically the Instituto de Órganos Históricos de Oaxaca [http://iohio.org.mx/eng/home.htm] has concerts in the city (and outside). These are not to be missed.

Many many venues play music.

PRESENTS TO TAKE HOME

Aside from junky crafts, the Museo Textil and Los Baules de Juana Cata have high quality textiles. The market sells papel picado, and loofah/estropajo, local stores and markets sell handmade soaps. Supermarkets sell lemon squeezers and other cool stuff we don’t get in the US. I really like the handmade paper Papeles de Oaxaca, Av. Juarez 510—made with flowers, dyes, amate bark, banana.

WEB PAGES-RESOURCES

 

[1] https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/traveladvisories/traveladvisories/mexico-travel-advisory.html

[2] see Peden. Out of the Volcano

[3] See Wasserspring, Oaxacan Ceramics.

[4] See Barbash. Oaxacan Wood Carving.

VIENEN GENTES EXTRAÑAS STRANGE FOLK ARE COMING

Comentarios sobre Kolao´ Kiá Dzä Jmii. Juega enmascarado de Gente Idioma (El Carnaval de la Chinantla Alta) por Eleuterio Xagaat García (presentado en

el INSTITUTO WELTE PARA ESTUDIOS OAXAQUEÑOS, A.C. 9 Feb 2018.

Vienen gentes extrañas… (6) y vienen a denunciar a las autoridades civiles y religiosas de las comunidades de Comaltepec, Yolox y Temextitlán. Este trabajo bilingüe chinanteco-español presenta descripciones de los ritos de Carnaval en tres comunidades de la Chinantla Alta del estado de Oaxaca, México, según la observación, la participación, el análisis y la fotografía del autor, Eleuterio Xaagat García, entre los años de 2006 al 2010.

Se ve la localización de las comunidades en este mapa, que por cierto es de gentes extrañas—el Instituto Lingüístico del Verano, pero en el mapa no se aprecia la geografía de la zona, casi en la cumbre de la Sierra Madre Oriental.

Presento aquí una perspectiva informada por mi posicionamiento como antropóloga, como extranjera, y como mujer, con comentarios que plantean mas preguntas que respuestas, en la espera de generar una conversación mas larga.

Como antropóloga, veo al Carnaval como un rito de rebelión en el cual los participantes cuestionan a las autoridades, y crean un espacio en el cual todas las normas se rompen (Gluckman 1962, 1963). Dos ejes principales de análisis de los ritos de rebelión, como el Carnaval desde la perspectiva antropológica, son las mismas polémicas de siempre—el materialismo marxista (con sus lentes que vean la desigualdad y el conflicto) y el funcionalismo (con su perspectiva de acomodación y adaptación, o bien la manutención del estado quo). Para poder decidir entre el materialismo y el funcionalismo, habría que analizar los efectos de la “rebelión.” ¿A cuál autoridad retan? ¿Permiten los ritos la consolidación de la identidad y la conservación del orden social (Gluckman 1963)? A caso la presentación de la identidad minimiza los conflictos a la vez que refuerza la identidad? O, como lo plantea Sheriff (1999) para Brasil, que el Carnaval en las barriadas pobres de la ciudad supera las divisiones de raza y de clase crea una identidad nacional. ¿Sería el caso aquí? ¿Cuáles son las desigualdades actuales en las comunidades—entre la gente con tierras, y sin tierras; los migrantes; los con más estudios, etc.? ¿Cómo se representan estas desigualdades—aparte del cobro de las cooperaciones—en las fiestas?

No me toca contestar estas preguntas, sin embargo, me parece que una respuesta fundada ayudaría a evaluar cuál de las dos perspectivas–la de la desigualdad y el conflicto o la de la identidad-adaptación–es más acertado. Tiendo a darle más peso al conflicto y la desigualdad en el análisis de la práctica de la cultura, pero reconozco que es complicado y dinámico y no poseo un conocimiento suficientemente profundo para poder llegar a una conclusión. De todos modos parece que las representaciones de Carnaval si tienen algo que ver con la identidad, con una resistencia quizá más étnica y regional que nacional. La rebelión contra la autoridad no llega a la puerta del Estado, pero quizá a las estructuras y poderes locales. Queda al autor, Eleuterio Xagaat García, contestar la pregunta, y no a mí: ¿El Carnaval refuerza o debilita la autoridad comunitaria?

Como extranjera, gente extraña, veo en las palabras (vienen gentes extrañas) una narrativa con fundamento histórico que puede remontar a las múltiples conquistas que han sufrido el pueblo chinanteco—desde la expansión mexicana y zapoteca en la sierra, a la conquista española, a la formación del estado-nación mexicana, a la extensión de la economía y cultura global, y finalmente, a la llegada más reciente de la gente extraña—los misioneros protestantes.

Cada una de estas conquistas, pero sobre todo la española, traía un holocausto demográfico. La historia de los nuevos asentamientos en las tierras bajas puede representar la recuperación demográfica que tardó unos siglos después de la conquista española (84). Pero todas las conquistas han traído muchos cambios: “han cambiado las cosas en Yolox” (66), como dice Vo.

En parte el análisis del autor es una narrativa sobre un pasado en el cual la cultura estaba intacta, un pasado donde se respetaban a los seres poderosos, a la vez que la narrativa conlleva una aceptación de la modernidad, es un lamento a no “perder nuestra cultura” como dice Vo (64), y un auguro de un presente y un futuro terrible, como cuenta  Bito: “verás cuando lleguen monstruos que cagan un humo negro como el de la leña del pinabete” (66) (En el Siglo XIX, el ferrocarril de Oaxaca causó la deforestación casi total de la Sierra Norte para alimentar sus motores de vapor). Según las voces que capta Eleuterio Xaagat, han cambiado las cosas, y no por bien, aunque “la modernidad” parece tener sus atractivos. Estas narrativas históricas de un pasado bueno y un presente malo localicen a Yolox, Comaltepec y Temextitlán dentro de una especificidad histórico local, nacional, mesoamericano, y global. La contradicción entre esta narrativa y lo atractivo del mundo actual es casi universal, pero, en la fiesta de Carnaval en Temextitlán, que tuve la gran oportunidad de observar en 2017, presencié la síntesis de lo viejo y lo nuevo—a la vez que acatan a las formas antiguas y con contenidos antiguos, también parecen celebrar y apropiar la tecnología, el consumo y otras prácticas nuevas. Como todo rito, el Carnaval en estas comunidades en la Chinantla Alta, lleva sus etapas fijas, pero sus contenidos son dinámicos—con diferentes representaciones en las diferentes comunidades, y a lo largo del tiempo. En vez de provocar una añoranza por los tiempos perdidos, me emociona presenciar la creación, la apropiación, el dinamismo de estas culturas. Se están cambiando, pero no se están desapareciendo.

Como mujer, pregunto sobre el papel de las mujeres en las fiestas o bien, en la conversación sobre estas prácticas. Algunas de ellas me comentaron que no iban a la fiesta para evitar a los borrachos y a los chismes, mientras que las jóvenes resienten que no les dejan salir a bailar (76). No es de sorprender que haya conflicto generacional, pero me quedé con la duda, que a lo mejor no le toca a Eleuterio a resolver, de ¿que piensan las mujeres sobre Carnaval?

En suma, como antropóloga, como extranjera y como mujer, espero que mis comentarios se toman en el mejor sentido. Dejo mas preguntas que respuestas, ya que no me toca contestarlas, pero, a modo de conclusión, observo que todo rito es una representación, es una obra de teatro dirigido por los actores participantes. El rito, y las representaciones, son comentarios sobre la vida experimentada por la gente, y sus comentarios señalan que la vida ha cambiado y sigue cambiando. Y es lo alentador, lo mero bueno.

El trabajo de Eleuterio es único, innovador y bonito en que

  • es un escrito desde la perspectiva desde adentro, de un participante pleno
  • representa a las experiencias con imágenes más ricas que las palabras, aunque
  • las palabras son increíblemente poéticas
  • y, finalmente, crea un espacio para la representación—ahora y a futuro—del idioma, de las prácticas, y es más, de la cosmovisión dinámica de estas comunidades.

Adiós, adiós el cerro de Oaxaca

Adiós, adiós la villa de Guerrero

Que se lleva mi sombrero

Para nunca más volver (215)

 

pero me late que sí volverá…

=====

STRANGE FOLK ARE COMING

Vienen gentes extrañas… (strange people are coming) (6), coming to denounce the political and religious leaders of the communities of Comaltepec, Yolox y Temextitlán. This bilingual Chinantec-Spanish book describes Carnaval in these communities in the Chinantla Alta in Oaxaca, Mexico with the observations, participation, analysis and photography of the author, Eleuterio Xaagat García, between 2006 and 2010. The Chinantla Alta (map) is located almost at the top of the Sierra Madre Oriental, but the map, drawn by some of the strange folk who came–the Summer Institute of Linguistics—does not do justice to the high mountainous terrain of the region.

My comments reflect my position as an anthropologist, a foreigner and as a woman, but they pose more questions than answers, in the hope that of generating a longer conversation.

As an anthropologist, I see Carnaval as a ritual of rebellion, in which participants question authority, and create a space in which norms are broken (Gluckman 1962, 1963). Two main analytical axes that anthropologists use to analyze practices like rituals of rebellion such as Carnaval, are Marxist materialism (using the categories of inequality and conflict) and functionalism (using categories such as adaptation and status quo). In order to decide which best explains a practice, we need information about the effects of this so-called rebellion. What authority do they challenge? Does the ritual lead to the consolidation of identity and maintenance of the social order (Gluckman 1963)? If so, the representation of ethnic identity may smooth over conflict and permit peace to reign. More specifically, as Sheriff (1999) poses for Brazil, does Carnaval minimize racial and class differences in the creation of a national identity? What are the inequalities in these communities—between landed and landless, migrants, educated, or what? How are inequalities represented in Carnaval—aside from collecting family donations for the fiesta costs? I cannot answer these questions, but it seems that a substantiated answer would help decide which perspective—inequality/conflict or identity/stability—is the best explanation of events. Although I tend to give first and most weight to explanations that analyze conflict and inequality in cultural practices, I recognize that things are complex and dynamic, and furthermore, that I don’t know enough to come to a conclusion. At any rate, the representations in the Carnaval fiestas have something to do with identity, maybe about a resistance that is more ethnic and regional than national. These rebellions against authority certainly do not threaten the state, but they may shake local power structures.

As a foreigner in Mexico, as strange folk, I see in these words a narrative with a historical base that could go back through the many conquests the Chinantec people have suffered: as far as Mexica and Zapotec expansions into the sierra, or the founding of the Mexican nation-state, or to economic and cultural globalization, or to the arrival of the most recent strange folk, protestant missionaries.

Each of these conquests, but most of all the Spanish, brought demographic holocaust. The history of recent Chinantec settlements on the northern slopes of the sierra may represent, not just the development of hydropower, but also demographic recovery (84). But all conquests bring change: “things have changed in Yolox” as Vo says (66).

In one way, Eleuterio Xaaga’s analysis is a narrative about a good past with an intact culture, when people respected the powers that be, at the same time that it accepts modernity—a call to “keep our culture” as Vo says (64), and a prediction of a terrible present and future, as Bito says “you’ll see monsters shitting black smoke from burning firewood” (66). (In the nineteenth century, almost the entire northern Sierra of Oaxaca was deforested to feed the steam engines of the national rail system than ran through Oaxaca). According to the voices that Eleuterio captures, things have indeed changed, and not for better, in spite of the lure of modernity. These historical narratives—between a good past and a bad future—are virtually universal, but they locate Yolox, Comaltepec and Temextitlán within their own historical specificity in the general context of local, national, regional and global conquests and change. I observed some of these contradictions in fiesta of Carnaval when I visited Temextitlán 2017, a synthesis between old and new, both hewing to ancient forms and contents, and celebrating technology, consumption and new practices. Like all ritual, Carnaval is made up of fixed stages but with changing content, with differing representations in each the three communities, and over time. Instead of making me long for lost time, I was honored at being able to witness the creation, the appropriation, the dynamics of these cultures. Things are changing in the Chinantla Alta, but they are not disappearing.

As a woman, I have to query the role of women in these fiestas or in the conversation about cultural practices. Some women commented to me that they didn’t go down to the fiesta because of all the drunks and gossip, while young women resent that they aren’t allowed to go to the dance (76). While I’m not surprised to see generational conflict, I wonder what women think about Carnaval?

As an anthropologist, foreigner and a woman, I hope that my comments are taken as the questions of an ignorant extraña. I leave more questions than answers, but, by way of a conclusion, note that all rituals are representations or performances directed by the participants. They comment on current, not past, life and experience. In these cases, the participants in the fiestas of Carnaval in the Chinantla Alta of Oaxaca represent their histories and their lives as a struggle that is about authority, language, past and a changing present.

This work is unique, innovative and beautiful in that is written from inside, by a full participant; in that it represents experiences with images that are more eloquent than a thousand words; with words that are so incredibly poetic. Finally, this work creates a space for the representation, now and in the future, of the incredibly complex Chinantec language, practice and cosmology.

Goodbye, goodbye from the hills of Oaxaca

Goodbye, goodbye to the town of Guerrero

Take my hat

And never come back (215)xaagat presentation IMG_8241

… but I bet they will.

FUENTES

Sheriff, Robin. 1999. “The Theft of Carnaval: National Spectacle and Racial Politics in Rio de Janiero” [https://culanth.org/articles/144-the-theft-of-carnaval-national-spectacle-and] (4feb18)

Gluckman, Max [http://www.newworldencyclopedia.org/entry/Max_Gluckman] (4 feb2018).

Gluckman, Max. [1963] 2004. Order and rebellion in tribal Africa: Collected essays with an autobiographical introduction. Routledge. ISBN 0415329833

Gluckman, Max. 1962. Essays on the ritual of social relations. Manchester University Press.

Xaagat García, Eleuterio. 2016. Kolao´ Kiá Dzä Jmii. Juega enmascarado de Gente Idioma (El Carnaval de la Chinantla Alta). Oaxaca: México. Comisión Nacional para el Desarrollo de los Pueblos Indígenas, La Voz de la Sierra Juárez, el H. Ayuntamiento Constitucional, Santiago Comaltepec. ISBN: 978-607-8498-10-9).

HOW EDGY SHE IS: review of Judith Romero’s Othered Women LA ATINADA. Reseña de OTRAS MUJERES, exposición de Judith Romero, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo

Free dancing in the wind, Deyanira Aquino (of La Teca Restaurant, one of the top in Mexico) captures a beautiful woman, in a beautiful place, her home in the Isthmus.

Photographer Judith Romero doesn’t know how edgy her work and her spaces are. Her recent show, Othered Women / Otras Mujeres at the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca (MACO) shows how accurate is her finger on the pulse. Portraits of women from Oaxaca, Mexico, Chile, Argentina, Poland and elsewhere tell the stories of women who have chosen not to have children. The photos are technically exquisite and beautiful with that unique gaze of a desk, a kitchen, a woman with her words and story.

Opening to a standing room only crowd with short video that set the scene with the voices of women from all over–women who choose not to become mothers, followed by a conversation organized by The Rosario Castellanos Women’s Study Group–with forty years of work in women’s empowerment, leadership, and reproductive rights in Oaxaca. Speakers commented on their own lives and decisions, and ended with…be free. These words and women and this electric ending sparked questions and comments from the women in audience – asking about handling public space, about how even mothers are othered. These comments gave the audience a peek at the tangible need for a space to create a language for women’s lives and decisions—the need for a space to process, to make women´s life decisions visible.

Then, the images, technically expert and beautiful with Judith’s unique eye–of a desk, a kitchen, of a woman with her words, her story. I particularly loved the images of Lisa and Emilia, and, of course of Deyanira (above).

Romero doesn’t know how edgy her work is, but this show at the MACO is just a justly deserved recognition of her previous work, and her future promise. Her openings spill out of her Galería Resplandor with music, food and hair styling, among other things, into the Pañuelito plaza in Oaxaca.

Other events include Mirar adentro (curated by Iván Ruiz) with portraits, places and thoughts in movement from a group of wonderful artists.  La Fiesta, for example, presented works by a number of artists, including the internal gaze of Eleuterio Xagaat García’s in representations of Holy Week in Temexitlán in the Chinantla Alta. Other shows include Chilean artists, and Caballeras by Colette Urbajtel–this opening included hair styling with the food and music in the plaza, and finally the intimate and powerful work of Lucero González, founding feminist, Origen.

Keep an eye on this.

===

LA ATINADA. Reseña de OTRAS MUJERES, exposición de Judith Romero, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo.

Bailando, libre, en los vientos de su tierra natal, el Istmo, una bella mujer, Deyanira Aquino (La Teca Restaurant)

Fotógrafa Judith Romero no se da cuenta de lo que ella—con sus espacios y fotos—es. Su exposición reciente Otras Mujeres en el Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca (MACO) muestra cuan atinada es su visión. Retratos de mujeres de Oaxaca, México, Chile, Argentina, Polonia y otros lugares nos cuentan de mujeres que han decido no tener hijos. Las fotos son técnicamente exquisitas y bellas con su visión única—un escritorio, una cocina, una mujer—cada una con sus palabras e historia.

No quedaban asientos en la inauguración, que empezó con un video con las voces de mujeres de todo el mundo—mujeres quienes decidieron no ser madres, y seguido por una conversación organizado por el Grupo de Estudios de la Mujer Rosario Castellanos (con 40 años de trabajo en pro del empoderamiento de la mujer, sus derechos, salud y liderazgo). Hablaban de sus propias vidas y decisiones, terminando con … ¡sea libre! Estas palabras y estas mujeres, con esta exhortación final, incitaron preguntas y comentarios del público sobre la otrareidad que sienten en los espacios públicos, como mujeres, como madres. Conmovió la tajante necesidad de un espacio para procesar, visualizar, y hablar sobre estos temas.

Luego, pasamos a los imágenes, tan expertas y bellas, con la perspectiva sensible y bella de Judith—de un escritorio, una cocina, una mujer—cada una sus palabras e historia. Me conmovieron especialmente las imágenes y palabras de Emilia y Lisa, y, por supuesto, de Deyanira (arriba).

Romero no sabe qué tan atinada es su visión, pero la exposición en el MACO reconoce su trabajo actual y anterior, y la promesa al futuro. En las inauguraciones de sus exposiciones en su Galería Resplandor—la música, la comida, hasta el estilista de cabello, fluyen y ocupen la plazuelita del Pañuelito.

Otros eventos incluyen Mirar adentro (Iván Ruiz, curador) con los retratos, lugares y pensamientos dinámicos de un grupo de fotógrafos nuevos y excelentes. La Fiesta presentó el trabajo de varios fotógrafos, incluyendo especialmente la vista desde adentro de Eleuterio Xagaat García de la fiesta de Carnaval en la Chinantla Alta. Otras exposiciones han presentado el trabajo de fotógrafos chilenos, de Caballeras de Colette Urbajtel, y finalmente, la obra íntima e importante de Lucero González, feminista de marca, Origen.

Ojo con esto.